The Truth About the "No Poo" Trend — and Why It May Make You Go Bald

Well, first of all, no poo has nothing to do with fiber intake. No poo is a hair movement in which participants choose to eschew good ol' shampoo and conditioner in pursuit of healthier, stronger locks. Though it's currently deemed a fad, not shampooing is only new for some: the natural-hair community has been using alternative methods of hair cleansing for a long time. Natural hair is prone to dryness and breakage, so frequent washing can actually harm strands.

Currently, those in the no poo camp are skipping shampoo in favor of rinsing their hair with water. But the most popular method is to lather up with a combination of baking soda and apple cider vinegar. These alternative remedies are sulfate free (sulfates are known to fade color-treated hair). Others also believe that their locks are excessively greasy due to shampoo use. Their logic goes as follows: when you overdo it on facial cleansing, your oil glands produce extra sebum to make up for what you've stripped away (which is why harsh acne treatments can cause breakouts). Similarly, no poo followers are convinced that washing their hair results in stringy strands.

Elizabeth Cunnane Phillips, a trichologist (hair and scalp expert) at Philip Kingsley, says no. "There are no advantages, only disadvantages to not shampooing," she says. "A clean scalp is paramount to healthy hair." Manhattan dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross agreed. "Scalp oils are actually hospitable to the growth of yeast, which can lead to inflammation." So not only is it possible to get a yeast infection on your scalp, it can have serious repercussions — inflammation can lead to hair loss. Yikes. And if you thought that your kitchen remedy of baking soda and apple cider vinegar was a healthy alternative to shampoo and conditioner, think again — it turns out your kitchen remedy is more harmful than healthy. You might enjoy those sulfate-free bubbles, but according to Gross, that homemade cleanser is actually damaging your hair. And ACV is even more destructive on your new dye job than sulfates, because just like lemon juice, apple cider vinegar is acidic and can make your hair change color.

Though you might know better now that water or baking soda are not the sources of supermodel hair, you now might be a little lost. We get it, especially after reading all the hype about shampoo being bad for you. Still, there are some shampoo ingredients to avoid — and sulfates are definitely one of them. Dr. Gross also suggests looking for products that don't contain parabens or alcohol (which can overdry hair).

But the real key to getting a great mane is thinking like a skin care junkie. "The scalp is skin too," Gross reminded us. "You should treat the scalp as you would your face or body." It makes sense! Applying active ingredients to your skin results in cellular turnover, which irons out wrinkles and brightens the complexion. When you use those wonderworkers on your scalp, you not only balance the skin there (see ya, yeast infection!), but you also promote healthier hair growth. Bottom line: using shampoo can actually help you to grow more hair.

So when you're shopping, look for the same ingredients in your hair care that you'd want in your skin care, including retinol, peptides, salicylic acid, and collagen. And if you want deeper hydration, keep an eye out for creamy or pearly shampoo formulas, which are generally more moisturizing than clear shampoos. Try Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare's Strengthening Shampoo — it contains biotin (a potent strand-strengthener) and willow bark (a natural alternative to salicylic acid that clears away oil).

If you think you can get away with a few days between washes, that likely comes down to hair texture. Those with fine hair generally need to shampoo daily, but coarser textures or women with longer hair can stretch it a little bit. If you are a dry-shampoo fan, try to use a formula that contains ingredients beneficial to the scalp. Philip Kingsley's One More Day dry shampoo contains zinc to fight flakes and bisabolol to soothe irritated skin. But if you're worried about how oily your hair is, don't only look at what's in your shower. "Hormonal imbalances and poor nutrition are much more likely to influence oil production than shampoo," said Cunnane Phillips. When in doubt, wash it out — daily.