Global warming must be good for millinery because covering up your precious scalp and shielding your face was on the mind of many designers for Spring 2009. Everything from knit wraps (which were everywhere) and sun hats to architectural marvels found there way into collections. Here from Anna Sui, Milly by Michelle Smith, Joanna Mastroianni, Iodice, Ports 1961, Marc Jacobs, Y3, Alexander Wang, Catherine Holstein, Erin Fetherston, and Nicole Miller.
The black day dress seems a strange staple for a Spring 2009 runway and yet it kept popping up on runway after runway, as if to say things are a bit dire so maybe a conservative frock will get the attention of concerned buyers? Our gallery showcasing the trend includes Ralph Rucci, Carmen Marc Valvo, Badgley Mischka, Zac Posen, Aurelio Costarella, Vera Wang, Chris Han, Anna Sui, Richard Chai, Joanna Mastroianni, Dennis Basso, Derek Lam, Iodice, Rock and Republic, and Nicole Miller
Everything from skirts and pants to day dresses and evening gowns shined lke the top of the Chrysler Building at New York Fashion Week. And given that we have no clue how Lehman Brothers is going to survive the week we too say its a Hard Knock Life, thus the fantasy and aspirations of a newly impovershied America turns to glitz and glamour. Ralph Rucci, Carmen Marc Valvo, Aurelio Costarella, Reem Acra, Naeem Khan, Joanna Mastroianni, Dennis Basso, Derek Lam, Ports 1961, Venexiana, Calvin Klein, and Isaac Mizrahi are all in our gallery.
Joanna is a designer that thinks about the details of her collection from the initital inspirations to the final trim on a hem and her Spring 2009 was a reflection of that diligence.
Structured dresses in bright colors like orange, red, and pink had a City of Angels circa 1950 feeling. We imagined it as a sort of Joan Dideon Play it As It Lays Los Angeles wardrobe for the tortured and irrelevant starlet Helene struggling to showcase her beauty to ultimate effect. That kind of flat landscape of emotions makes for a world in which clothing takes on extra significance.
The Los Angeles 1950s feel continued with Deco pieces in white and black styling with Joanna's signature crispness. Geometric cuts added interest to the dresses, with unexpected openings drawing our eyes to a shoulder, a pocket, or a breastbone. We caught a few hints of her Byzantine influences from seasons past withe gold chains making appearances on dresses.
We imagine the collection as giving a hint of hard times seepingfrom the edges of Los Angeles. And as one must always reference the recession we applaud that potential darkness. It says beauty must try even in the face of troubles. In fact Joanna closed the show with "I'm A Survivor." Touching even if it's a strange modern pop cultural reference for a a collection that so strongly evokes another period.
Joanna Mastroianni is an international, articulate, and intellectual woman who creates impressive fantasies from the tiniest details of inspiration. We had a chance to go backstage, interview her (check out last season's interview) and get a sense for styling of her Spring 2009 collection.
Coutorture produced a lot of videos this fashion week. We had runway videos, backstage makeup, and designer interviews, making us very busy bees for most of the week. Check out some of our favorite designer interviews including Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein, Chris Han, Isaac Mizrahi, Tory Burch, Naeem Khan, Michael Kors, Joanna Mastroianni, Monique Lhuillier, John Varvatos, Donna Karen at DKNY, Ashleigh Verrier and our very favorite Oscar De La Renta. We have a ton more so please check out all of our video coverage of Fashion Week!
There is something magical about seeing a collection come together. Our visit to Joanna Mastroianni's studio before Fashion Week made us feel exceptionally lucky as she dazzled us with her laser like focus and inspiration. But seeing the finished collection today was an even more rare privilege. The tiles she had shown us in our video tour manifested in garments fit for a princess from skirts to a hoodie cape.
Indeed, while her theme was more Moroccan this season we asked her before the show if she had ever been inspired by Byzantine princess Anna Comnena what with her emphasis on detailing, gold and noble craftsmanship. Her face lit up and she told us that yes rare and exceptional women throughout history have always inspired her with Anna at the top of her list. It was an esoteric inspiration thus we were pleased to find ourselves on the same wavelength as the brilliant Joanna. We like to think that Princess Anna just may be the patron saint of this royal line.
