Global warming must be good for millinery because covering up your precious scalp and shielding your face was on the mind of many designers for Spring 2009. Everything from knit wraps (which were everywhere) and sun hats to architectural marvels found there way into collections. Here from Anna Sui, Milly by Michelle Smith, Joanna Mastroianni, Iodice, Ports 1961, Marc Jacobs, Y3, Alexander Wang, Catherine Holstein, Erin Fetherston, and Nicole Miller.
The black day dress seems a strange staple for a Spring 2009 runway and yet it kept popping up on runway after runway, as if to say things are a bit dire so maybe a conservative frock will get the attention of concerned buyers? Our gallery showcasing the trend includes Ralph Rucci, Carmen Marc Valvo, Badgley Mischka, Zac Posen, Aurelio Costarella, Vera Wang, Chris Han, Anna Sui, Richard Chai, Joanna Mastroianni, Dennis Basso, Derek Lam, Iodice, Rock and Republic, and Nicole Miller
Everything from skirts and pants to day dresses and evening gowns shined lke the top of the Chrysler Building at New York Fashion Week. And given that we have no clue how Lehman Brothers is going to survive the week we too say its a Hard Knock Life, thus the fantasy and aspirations of a newly impovershied America turns to glitz and glamour. Ralph Rucci, Carmen Marc Valvo, Aurelio Costarella, Reem Acra, Naeem Khan, Joanna Mastroianni, Dennis Basso, Derek Lam, Ports 1961, Venexiana, Calvin Klein, and Isaac Mizrahi are all in our gallery.
Joanna is a designer that thinks about the details of her collection from the initital inspirations to the final trim on a hem and her Spring 2009 was a reflection of that diligence.
Structured dresses in bright colors like orange, red, and pink had a City of Angels circa 1950 feeling. We imagined it as a sort of Joan Dideon Play it As It Lays Los Angeles wardrobe for the tortured and irrelevant starlet Helene struggling to showcase her beauty to ultimate effect. That kind of flat landscape of emotions makes for a world in which clothing takes on extra significance.
The Los Angeles 1950s feel continued with Deco pieces in white and black styling with Joanna's signature crispness. Geometric cuts added interest to the dresses, with unexpected openings drawing our eyes to a shoulder, a pocket, or a breastbone. We caught a few hints of her Byzantine influences from seasons past withe gold chains making appearances on dresses.
We imagine the collection as giving a hint of hard times seepingfrom the edges of Los Angeles. And as one must always reference the recession we applaud that potential darkness. It says beauty must try even in the face of troubles. In fact Joanna closed the show with "I'm A Survivor." Touching even if it's a strange modern pop cultural reference for a a collection that so strongly evokes another period.
Joanna Mastroianni is an international, articulate, and intellectual woman who creates impressive fantasies from the tiniest details of inspiration. We had a chance to go backstage, interview her (check out last season's interview) and get a sense for styling of her Spring 2009 collection.
Joanna Mastroianni A/W 2008