Liu Wen

>> Given that the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show is taping tomorrow, lots of tidbits have been rolling in between all the fittings and the models' appearance in Times Square this morning.  We've gotten previews of Liu Wen's (two!) outfits, as well as those of VS regulars Miranda Kerr, Alessandra Ambrosio, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Selita Ebanks, and after this morning's appearance, more clues as to who will be walking — including a few surprises.

Spring 2010 runway newcomer Anastasia Kuznetsova and Dorothea Barth Jorgensen both popped up in the Times Square photos, as did Elyse Taylor, Sessilee Lopez, and Russian model Tatiana Kovylina, who walked for Victoria's Secret in 2005.  Anja Rubik and Abbey Lee Kershaw have also been confirmed as show castmembers, but have yet to make an appearance, and although unconfirmed, Anna Maria Jagodzinska's photo was on the show casting board, so she may show up as well.

UPDATE: Photos of Anna J. and Edita Vilkeviciute have been spotted on the casting board in a newly posted video; word is Emanuela de Paula will not be walking after all because of a conflicting photoshoot. [YouTube, TFS, TFS]

>> Yesterday was all fittings and a dinner party — which host Karl Lagerfeld and his entourage were a full two hours late for (blame it on the fittings and Lady Amanda Harlech's mosquito-stung eye) — but the Chanel Cruise 2010 was this evening at the Grand Hotel Excelsior Lido Resort in Venice.

Siri Tollerod, Heidi Mount, Liu Wen, Charlotte di Calypso, and Denisa Dvorakova were all in town to walk, powwowing with Lagerfeld for their fittings yesterday; add to that list Inguna Butane and Snejana Onopka, who sent photographic evidence of their arrival, plus Lara Stone and Tatjana Patitz, who walked the finale with Karl.

Carine Roitfeld and Emmanuelle Alt were spotted lounging in the sun on the Hotel Europa's terrace pre-show, and at the Excelsior Lido, white tents were set up on the beach and the pier lit up. The catwalk was a boardwalk and the front row a line of deck chairs, with editors left to deal with their heels sinking into the sand.

Last night, Lagerfeld hinted that the clothes would be reminiscent of Peggy Guggenheim, the patron whose palazzo now houses Italy’s most important collection of twentieth-century art, and inspired by Venetian high-society of the '30s, with fabrics sourced from "the rich reds of the Renaissance, Fortuny's prints, and the chiaroscuro technique of the great Italian masters."

The show happened at sunset — Karl made everyone wait two hours because he wanted to start then — with the girls wearing Marchesa Casati-inspired wigs and makeup, the opening "sailor girl-inspired cream and navy knits" and a finale of metallic lace cocktail dresses.  Guests brought home a Chanel beach towel as souvenir.

More photos of the collection here.

>> It was a three-tone show for Ohne Titel this morning: black, gray, or brown, but it contrasted quite nicely with the light, bright white space; the only pops of color in the room came from the varicolored macaroons being served beforehand.  Quite the show for the newly-minted 2009 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winners.  The model cast was excitingly blue-chip — Liu Wen! Constance Jablonski! Lakshmi Menon! Eniko Mihalik! — it must be those unzipped knee-exposing stretch pants they're all gunning to take home; that and the over-the-knee, ruffled-top, lace-up back leather boots Alexa Adams and Flora Gill did in conjunction with Cesare Paciotti.

The designers say they went "darker" with "armorial" accents this season; along with the tight-fitting knit bondage dresses, the pieces fitted with studs, what looked like washers, and other assorted metallic elements organized in a pattern that reminded me of an art deco skyscraper, stood out.  Also of note: Alastair McKimm, who styled Alexander Wang last season and this season, also styled this show.
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>> Phillip Lim created the mascot skirt of Fashion Week earlier this year — not kidding, I've seen it on at least one person every day this week — and if the attendance to his newest collection's presentation is any indication, Spring 2009 will be smooth sailing for 3.1 Phillip Lim — the Tent was packed to the gills with fans, including friends Richard Chai and Irina Lazareanu, both sitting front row.

Christian Louboutin designed ruffled heels for the collection, eliciting covetousness in many — in fact, the whole Spring 2009 season is about ruffles for Phillip.  The treatment in some of the dresses and skirts reminded me of a tamed version of Marc Jacobs's Spring 2007 ruffles, but among the hazy smoke that hovered on the runway, the real standouts emerged — the stiff, open-edged zipper pieces, and the jewelry Eddie Borgo made for the occasion.
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>> It's hard to imagine being pregnant and designing hot little minidresses for other women to wear, but when you're Thea Bregazzi, one half of design duo Preen, and those hot little minidresses happen to be what your label is known for, that's just what you do.

The heavily expectant Thea stayed across the pond in London while her partner in design and life, Justin Thornton, carried on with the label's show today. He carried it well — everything went smoothly, save a slight wardrobe malfunction for Anja Rubik and the confusion that ensued at the end of the show, when Justin didn't appear at the end of the runway and no one knew when to start the final applause.

As for the clothes, the dresses with intricate paneled cutouts and peekaboo zipper slats, the piquante shots of tomato red, and the sexily laced up pleated skinny pants came together for a more refined collection than we have seen from Preen in the last couple of seasons. Maybe Thea should be pregnant more often . . .
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>> Take working-class fashion, add a pinch of Joy Division, and you've got the inspiration David Neville and Marcus Wainwright were drawing on for their Spring 2009 collection. The Rag & Bone show changed venues this season from the upscale Cipriani to the more hard-edged Pier 94 — a change from polished to slightly edgy that you could also say was reflected in the clothes.

Black wraparound leather belts with threateningly sharp silver spikes accented so many of the looks, and are sure to be a must-have — but even the typical Rag & Bone tweedy suits were rock-n-rolled up with a leather mini, like Julia Dunstall's closing look, or a silvery silk sheen, like Jessica Stam's blazer.

The model cast was full of high notes — stalwarts like opener Sasha Pivovarova or Coco Rocha — and the coveted new girls like Aline Weber and Liu Wen. Arlenis Pena was there too: she's had a big day, between being named as the new face of Lancome and slipping up at BCBG this morning.

To get the full experience, check out the runway video at Elle.com.
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>> Amongst significantly less hubbub — no Net-a-Porter selling his clothes right off the runway this time — Roland Mouret debuted his second collection yesterday under his new RM by Roland Mouret moniker.  The new set of dresses are definitely cut from the Mouret cloth — sheaths tailored with precision, oragami shapes — but for a man who's been using the same silhouettes since 2005, it's time to grow the aesthetic, not stand still in time.

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