Done up in ruddy-hued lips and strands styled with just a touch of texture, the models at 3.1 Phillip Lim's Fall 2013 show were urban girls with a bit of an edge. And in order to capture that sexy, naughty, dangerous vibe, Frédéric Fekkai lead stylist Paul Hanlon ensured models' hair texture was not too precise. But it was a reddish-brown lip look, conceptualized by makeup artist Francelle Daly for Nars, which really brought this downtown girl notion to life. All that was missing? A rocker boyfriend.
Bold lips and matte finishes are huge for Fall 2013, and the crimson version at Vera Wang was the focal point of the overall beauty look. The hair was left wavy and slight undone, and the nails were a soft gray.
Who would wear it: We can see Florence Welch rocking this look.
Key products: Clé de Peau Extra Rich Lipstick in Mister Lincoln and Tuscany.
Trends: Bold, matte lips.
Makeup: Lucia Pieroni for Clé de Peau Beauté created the bold matte lip using the Extra Rich Lipstick in Mister Lincoln and Tuscany. To add dimension to the look, she used the lighter shade on top of and in the center of the lip. She kept the face bare with a touch of shimmering shadow on the lids, while lashes went mascara-free to let the lips take center stage. Bold brows finished off the palette to balance the intensity of the lipstick.
Hair: "The hair is about texture," said lead stylist Paul Hanlon for Moroccanoil. The hair was left down and ultimately tucked into the clothes before models walked the runway, so Hanlon made sure he brought defined texture to the hair. After wetting the hair and prepping it with Volumizing Mousse, he twisted sections with his hands while he blow-dried. To better frame the face, he went back with a curling iron and finished the look with hair spray for hold.
Nails: Lead manicurist Jin Soon Choi used her JinSoon nail polish in Auspicious. "It's a light gray, but has a hint of lavender for a softer, more elegant touch," Choi said.
One theme we've seen a lot of this Spring 2012 Fashion Week is the balance of masculinity and femininity (see: the androgynous looks at Altuzarra and the sleek, braid-bun updos at Rachel Roy), and now we have Preen doing its own take on the gender-bender phenomenon. Of the '40s-style rolled updos seen on the runway, Paul Hanlon for Aveda explained, "It's a futuristic chignon; a bit Blade Runner, as well." And while the texture was slick and polished for a severe effect, Hanlon made sure the style also featured a modern, not-too-perfect edge, without being overly shellacked.
To create the look, he began by prepping the hair with the brand's Volumizing Tonic, blowing it dry with a round brush. Hair was then twisted back one side at a time, and ends were tucked and pinned within the style. Cool (er, hot) tip: to make sleek styles such as this smoother where needed, spray the area with hair spray (Hanlon used Air Control), and lightly brush the barrel of the curling iron over any wispiness to tame it down.
Photo courtesy of Aveda
Backstage at Proenza Schouler, designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough chatted with Frederic Fekkai, whose hair care line was being used on the models. Mr. Fekkai wasn't doing hair, but lead stylist Paul Hanlon led a team in creating an undone, tousled updo. "It's a twisted Hitchcock thing," Hanlon explained. "It's cool and sexy, but the designers wanted a maturity to the look." He applied Fekkai Coiff Oceanique Tousled Wave spray throughout hair before finger-combing it dry with a diffuser. After pulling hair into a French twist, he left a few pieces out for what he calls "a feeling that it's fallen." In one unusual but effective move, he wrapped hair with mesh scarves, then set the texture with Fekkai Coiff Sheer Hold hair spray before removing the scarf.
Makeup had a tomboyish quality. "They're much more ladylike than they usually are, but they still wanted a tough edge," makeup artist Diane Kendal said of the designers' vision. Flawless skin and contoured cheekbones (courtesy of MAC Iridescent Powder in Silver Dusk) provided a contrast to the strong eye. Kendal created tomboyish eyebrows by brushing on shadow a shade darker than each model's natural color. The finishing touch: a little bit of foundation dabbed on the lips.
Yesterday afternoon, I checked out the Armand Basi fashion show at the historic Banqueting House in London. Just like the grand landmark setting, the behind-the-scenes area was really something to admire. This was by far the most organized and spacious backstage space I have yet to encounter this week.
The models had a private changing area away from peeping photographers and media, and hair and makeup each had their own fully-equipped workstations. I spoke with lead hair stylist Paul Hanlon who collaborated with Armand to come up with big hair to complement the voluminous clothing. The look they went for was, as he put it, "young, fresh, teased, and fluffy — not lady-like."
For a step-by-step guide on how to create this stylish ponytail at home, read more