Backstage at Marc by Marc Jacobs, we got a first-hand look at the madness! Lead hairstylist Guido (for Redken) changed the hair at the last second, creating a heavy texture with oil for a grungy feel. And although Marc did use his new lacquers on the nails, Dick Page for Shiseido masterfully applied a vibrant blue to the models' lids — and that's it. For the manicures, Marc was inspired by the lacquered look of one of his coffee tables and used that as inspiration for his own polish collection. Go backstage with us for our preshow interview, and see all the beauty looks up close in our Marc by Marc Jacobs gallery.
We always expect something interesting from Marc by Marc Jacobs, if his past collections are any indication, and the brand's Spring 2014 lineup was no different. "It's all about English grunge sensibility," lead hairstylist Guido for Redken said. Hair was grungy, weighed down with a ton of oils, and some of the girls had it tucked into scarves wrapped around their necks.
But the real standout was the makeup, courtesy of Dick Page of Shiseido. A block of blue sat on each girl's eyelids. And that was it; not even a flick of mascara or a swipe of eyeliner. Nails were done in Marc Jacobs's favorite color: shiny. A coat of Marc Jacobs Enamored Nail Glaze in Shiny Clear ($18) kept the nails looking clean, bright, and healthy.
It isn't Fashion Week until we spot makeup artist Pat McGrath. And backstage at Victoria Beckham Spring 2014, each model had a touch of Pat's signature style wearing thick black headbands. "With the black headband all you see is the girl's face so it streamlines it — takes the personality from each girl and makes them look utilitarian," said lead hairstylist Guido for Redken. Guido and Victoria worked to create a clean and modern look with a sleek, low ponytail. Each model's hair was blown straight with Redken Satinwear ($18) and the Babybliss Volare Dryer ($213) to get a uniform style.
For McGrath, the goal was to achieve a flawless complexion. The makeup was a luminous look that featured a mix of blush on the eyelids with copper and brown accents. The nude trend continued on the nails, which were painted with Nails Inc. Elizabeth Street ($10) with a matte top coat. See POPSUGAR Fashion's review of the show.
While he's typically known for sending full-on androgynous looks down the runway, Alexander Wang took a different approach for his Spring 2014 show. Beach waves and barely there makeup were the main looks of the evening. Guido for Redken opted to play with the natural texture of the models' hair, pulling inspiration from the '80s. Extensions were added, then curled, to achieve extra thickness. "It's Alexander Wang's take on big hair," Guido said. Diane Kendal for Nars focused on the skin, using only concealer and brow gel for the entire makeup look.
The one puzzle piece that fit Wang's typical aesthetic was the nails. Usually one to opt for texture, Wang asked for chalkboard nails. Lead nail artist Michelle Saunders used two coats of Essie Sand Tropez, followed by the brand's Matte About You top coat. It seems that at Alexander Wang, the more things change, the more they stay the same.
Let's just put it out there: most of us were floored when we spotted the fluorescent orange hue on the lips of the models at Rag & Bone. After season after season of pretty neutrals, the look for Spring 2014 was bold hue, courtesy of Revlon. "I practically begged for a bold lip," said lead makeup artist Gucci Westman, who swathed the girls' lips in a shade called Carnival (available Spring 2014). Westman gathered her inspiration from Brazil and this Summer's World Cup.
But while the makeup was a departure from the quintessential Rag & Bone, lead hairstylist Guido for Redken kept a comfortably typical aesthetic. "She's a Lower East Side, downtown girl," Guido said. He layered products to create the matted-down hair, leaving the ears poking out on the sides. This tough-girl vibe was mimicked in the nails by Jin Soon Choi, who painted them up in a thin swipe of white polish.
Marc by Marc Jacobs is known for its clean-lined ensembles, playful color combinations, and in the case of the Fall 2012 collection: loose, textured pieces. So what better way to let the clothing shine through than by keeping the upcoming season's beauty look appropriately minimalistic? It's the epitome of cool-girl style, and most of all, surprisingly easy to re-create.
- Have the hair: Redken creative consultant Guido Palau opted for a "simple and masculine" ponytail that featured a deep side part and at-the-nape base. In creating the style, hair was blow-dried "dead-straight," Palau explained, and prepped with the brand's Satinwear lotion — for which Palau describes as his "go-to blow-dry product."
- Nail the nails: "Marc wanted to portray a look that was innocent but still perfectly groomed," said manicurist Elisa Ferri. To accomplish this feel, models' nails were painted with two coats of Zoya's Adel, a sheer off-white with a creamy finish.
- Capture the cosmetics: Shiseido artistic director Dick Page mixed up a custom rouge shade for the show, keeping the vibrant hue the focus of the look. Add a touch of mascara and foundation where needed; geek-chic glasses optional.
Like the Wii but saddened by its lack of salon-centric games? Then mope no more, my compatriot, for Redken has created Busy Scissors, a new game that "allows consumers to perm, color, shampoo, cut, blow dry, and style hair." You work your way up in the digital salon by helping "unlock each client’s inner potential by finding their unique outward style." The game hasn't hit stores yet, but you can check out the video below for a preview. Do you think you'll be getting busy with this game later, or not so much?
Note: if you're unable to find Redken products, simply head to the beauty supply store and ask for a neutral dark blond shade for your roots, a gentle lightener for the middle and end pieces, and a gloss to tie it all together.
Photo courtesy Harper's Bazaar
"It's an effortless updo, but there are a few tricks," lead stylist Bok-Hee explained. To create fullness, she applied Redken Full Frame Mousse 08 to hair before blow-drying it. Then, she pulled hair back into a ponytail, then twisted it into a bun before securing it with bobby pins. To emphasize the tight area underneath the bun, she sprayed Redken Forceful 23 hairspray on hair, then dried hair again to create extra shine.
Backstage at Marc Jacobs, we caught up with beauty dream team François Nars, Guido Palau and Jan Arnold. The NARS founder explained the intense makeup look, while Redken creative consultant Guido talked about the Vogue editor who inspired a hairstyle. CND co-founder Jan also chimed in with the scoop on nails. Watch now!