Hot pink lip color is big for Spring! And since we saw the look all over the Spring/Summer 2011 runways at shows like Diane von Furstenberg and Jil Sander, we tried out a ton of glosses and lipsticks to find our favorites to get that bright bold look with. Check out which products made the cut.
>> Tom Ford promised to release a film of his Spring 2011 debut womenswear show when the clothes are nearly in stores, and he's delivered. The clip, set to Karen Elson's "Pretty Babies," shows just over three minutes of Daria Werbowy vamping and Beyonce working the runway, interspliced with shots of the editor audience and scenes from backstage. Ford has already said this setup is a one-time thing: he plans to show by appointment in upcoming seasons.
>> Brian Reyes, who showed his first collection for the Spring 2006 season, failed to pop up as usual at New York Fashion Week last month for the Spring 2011 season. According to a source at Reyes, the designer did create a Spring 2011 collection, but he's now focusing on private sales, of which he has seen a major uptick in the last 18 months. When reached for comment on whether Reyes's main line had been discontinued, a spokesperson confirmed that the brand had shifted focus and is currently "working on different projects." [Fashionista]
Rodarte Used Floorboards to Make Their Spring 2011 Prints, Spent a Month Looking for the Right Button
>> Laura and Kate Mulleavy recently announced that they're collaborating with Opening Ceremony on womenswear, menswear, shoes, handbags, eyewear, hosiery for Spring under the label Rodarte for Opening Ceremony. Laura sat down with the retailer to talk about creating prints for their own label — "For the new [Spring 2011] collection, we did about 20 prints and 12 of them were off '70s wood paneling, different floorboards" — and their month-long quest for the right button: "We used a button for the first time, and that was traumatic! We needed one for this pair of shorts because it looked cute. And I hate buttons. So, we looked for buttons for a month at every source of buttons in the world and we never found one we liked. So, eventually I was talking to this tailor when I was picking up my dry cleaning, and I was like, 'Well, what do guys use for buttons?' and he said, 'Just make a covered button.' So, that's what we did. But it was flat, so it doesn't look like anything!"
She also explained how the Black Swan collaboration came about: "Someone in LA said to us, 'I don't know if you've heard about this secret script that's going around Hollywood, but I think it would be perfect for you to do something with this film.' It's basically a ballet horror film, which we had done a whole collection of. It went really well. I think what we do aesthetically worked for what he needed for the film. It's like a whole Swan Lake with a demon and everything, it's really cool. I think when you see it, you're gonna freak out."
>> It's Helmut Lang's shearling jacket that is currently sending hearts a-pitter, but what about next Spring? We've got the full Spring 2011 lookbook, complete with a peek at the brand's first handbag collection under designers Nicole and Michael Colovos. The bags — which range in clutches, hobos, and shoulder bags in napa leather and perch skin — are inspired by motorcycle jackets and feature brass buckles remniscent of a shark's tooth and braided fisherman’s handles, both a nod to Michael's previous career as a commercial fisherman.
>> Cathy Horyn is known for her acerbic take on fashion — in her review of Alexander Wang's Spring 2011 collection, she set tongues wagging after pronouncing: "Mr. Wang is not a great designer, though he probably would be happy to accept any laurels that people want to toss him, but he is clearly a shrewd guy . . . The designs were cool, but they didn’t have to stand up to much scrutiny — hey, didn’t Marni do those pants last season? — so long as the stuff was widely and easily available. Mr. Wang doesn’t really have courage in the traditional sense of trying something new and difficult, but he does have China. Nearly all of his clothing is now produced there."
Horyn more recently spent time at Azzedine Alaia's boutique during Paris Fashion Week — Wang also happened to be there, although no word on whether there was any interaction — and she explained to The Daily Beast that her goal is to bring a critical eye to those admired uncritically: "With Alexander, he's a smart kid, I admire the business that he's built, but you have to be critical of what he's done. You can't just say 'Oh well, he's young and he's working hard, he's putting a product on the runway.' I found that show boring. I may not have found other shows boring, but I found that one boring."
She's also critical of Fashion's Night Out: "I hope it doesn't go on. I don't want it to continue . . . You know, we're a nation of shoppers. That's how people spend their time, shopping online, shopping in stores, acquiring. And I feel like we perpetuate that with Fashion's Night Out. What are you really celebrating? Not art or great books. You're celebrating shopping."
Horyn sums up her critical approach as thus: "[I] want people to be better. [I] have standards. [I] want people to be not just good but very good. And I can be tough on people, sometimes too tough, especially with the most creative. I once called one of Tom Ford's collections freakish and ugly."
For all of Horyn's words logged on designers, however, The Daily Beast had trouble getting anyone to speak about Horyn: "During Fashion Week, I went from show to show, and party to party, asking about Horyn. Almost everyone declined comment or claimed that they don't actually read her reviews." A few did speak, however. "I prefer to look at beautiful pictures in magazines like American Vogue and French Vogue by editors like Anna Wintour and Carine Roitfeld," Karl Lagerfeld said. "I don't think reviews really matter anymore," Carolina Herrera said. Donna Karan admitted, meanwhile, that getting swiped by Horyn "still hurts. You can agree or disagree with her, but it's definitely passionate. She's not neutered, let's put it that way."
Fresh back from New York Fashion Week, we’ve selected the stand out trends to swap, store, and savor for Spring 2011! Swap out your go-to military coat for a chic classic, the trench coat! Store those darker clothes and let them hibernate until next Fall, Spring is all about breezy whites and bold colors. But a few key trends are carrying on for the warmer months- minimalism, trousers, and print on print ensembles!
>> Proenza Schouler recently sent flat sandals down its Spring 2011 runway. "Sensible shoes," noted Lazaro Hernandez. "Tranny shoes feel old, everyone's wearing them." But that wasn't the case for the amped-up platform oxfords seen on its Fall runway, which apparently aren't going into production. Opening Ceremony has six pairs of the one-of-a-kind shoes, straight off the runway. They range $750 to $1,000 and come in size 39 or 41. [@openingceremony]
>> There was no shortage of attendees last Thursday at the Spotted Pig in Manhattan, gathered in honor of Sally Singer's recent appointment as editor of T magazine. Singer was reportedly bashful about being the guest of honor as designers, friends, and Vogue cohorts all gathered to say their congratulations — among them Anna Wintour, who was one of the first to arrive — and Marco Zanini, creative director of Rochas, who flew in just for the event. Singer, who will debut her first issue for T on Dec. 5 (her first fashion issue doesn't come until February), is apparently done with hiring — she stated at the party that her staff of 40 at the magazine is set.
Models in Their Natural Habitat Part Four: Backstage at Proenza Schouler, Phillip Lim, Anna Sui, and More
>> Now that New York Fashion Week has wound to a close, one last look at the backstage hubbub — we've seen Lily Donaldson give her best glare, Liu Wen her best stare, and plenty of kissy faces. In this installment, there's Phillip Lim making a few last minute alterations, Hanne Gaby Odiele playing coy at Anna Sui, plus behind-the-scenes snaps from Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Jeremy Scott, and L'Wren Scott.
Photos: Greg Kessler