>> Thom Browne took his menswear show from New York to Paris this past June, but he's returning to New York Fashion Week in February — in a different capacity. Browne plans to stage his first proper women's show for Fall 2011: “I’m ready now, I know what to do. The show will be very much like my men’s wear ones — not traditional.” Regardless of the fact that he will be showing in two different cities — Paris for men's and New York for women's — he explained: “There’s no disconnect — and it all starts with a tailored point of view.” [WWD]
>> Thom Browne has dabbled in womenswear in the past — he sold a capsule collection at Barneys in 2007 and 2008, and his made-to-measure business caters to a coterie of female clients — but for Fall, he's designed a small collection to be sold at Barneys, Colette, 10 Corso Come Seoul, and his own shop.
“This time I have more time to focus on it,” Browne told WWD of the relaunch. “For September, it will be a bit bigger than before, with more styles within the categories, but very focused. In the next couple seasons it will become a fully developed collection . . . This is something I really want to do and Cross [which owns a majority stake in Browne's company] is definitely supportive. I want to develop it the same way men’s developed — small at first, and evolving slowly.”
From the runways onto department and drugstore shelves, I'm sure we'll see lots of fresh new makeup options and application techniques go full circle come March. Last month in New York, we saw six very wearable trends emerge, from peach lips to bold eyeliner to heavy-handed under-the-eye liners. But throughout the course of New York Fashion Week and other Spring 2010 shows, including Paris, London, and Milan, there were other looks that won't quite make the transition. Take this sequin forehead heart-shaped applique, for instance — straight from the Ungaro show in Paris, for which Lindsay Lohan acted as artistic adviser. While I appreciate each and every designer's artistic flair, some looks just won't translate to real life. See what I mean now.
>> Anna Wintour walked out to David Letterman's couch last night, Madonna's "Vogue" playing in the background, wearing Carolina Herrera and her trademark sunglasses — she subsequently took them off to give Dave a hard time about his socks, referring him to Thom Browne, since the designer's elevated pant hemlines show off a man's socks.
She definitely brought her witty side out last night — when Letterman asked if it was a fair assessment to say she's bigger than what she does for a living, she referred to Maureen Dowd's recent column: “I read in the New York Times this week that I'm an ice queen, I'm the Sun King, I'm an alien fleeing from District 9 and I'm a dominatrix. So I reckon that makes me a lukewarm royalty with a whip from outer space. What do you think?"
Later, Letterman compared fashion models on the runway to "beautiful women who look like the Neptunians have released them. But nobody buys that stuff, do they? Is somebody walking around like they’re from Neptune?” Wintour laughed: "Lots of people. I'm an alien, remember?"
She suppressed giggles after the clip from The September Issue in which she berates Vogue style director Elissa Santisi was played, and chastises Letterman for calling her last-minute to appear on the show. When he asked if The Devil Wears Prada was made about her, she was coy: “Well, I seem to remember that actually the movie was a work of fiction and we really like fiction at Vogue.” When prompted about what percentage of decisions she makes at the magazine, she replies: "100 percent." And when Letterman notes that The September Issue leaves Vogue seeming as if it's run by people his age, she quips: "Vogue is not only run by senior citizens."
>> Last night, Anna Wintour hosted a premiere of The September Issue (which opens Aug. 28 in NYC, Sept. 11 nationwide), and no one dared be late. Arrivals were scheduled to start at 7 pm, but Anna appeared and was joined (despite all the digs about her appearance she receives in the film) by September 2007 cover girl Sienna Miller promptly at 6:45 pm. Even Sean Combs and entourage, when realizing they were late, "sprinted across the lobby," the New York Observer reports.
Despite the general consensus that the film's true star is Grace Coddington, last night was all about Anna. Grace and Andre Leon Talley both avoided being photographed on the red carpet, and it appears that Vogue staffers were required to wear t-shirts for Fashion's Night Out (Anna's pro-shopping pet project) to the event. Grace did comment on her portrayal in the film, however:
I hate to say it, but true to life! A very annoying person. But it’s not really bickering. It’s a process you have to go through for the job we do and it just makes everything stronger. Whatever gets through is then very valid and very strong. I think they focused on me in the movie because I’m a bit more outspoken and because I don’t care about the cameras, I’ll say whatever I want to say and I won’t hold back.
It’s funny because that was two years ago and I wanted to go to law school then and that’s basically all I’m talking about and now I don’t want to go to law school at all so . . . [I] still don’t want to work in fashion, that was never a possibility. Now I’d like to work in theater.
Marc Jacobs, who was apparently speaking with a French accent, had his own Anna tribute to share. "She’s a risk-taker unafraid of taking chances. She doesn’t suck up,” he said. “And she’s been very good to me on a personal level as well. When I was having some personal problems, Anna was always there for me. She’s very maternal and caring to people she cares about."
Spring 2010 New York Fashion Week: Ralph Lauren Expands to Three Shows; Two Designers Dare to Overlap with Fashion's Night Out
>> New York Fashion Week is still over a month away, but Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week just released its official calendar today and the Fashion Calendar — which shows all of the shows not included in the Bryant Park festivities — has appeared online, so we can get an idea of what will be going down in that crazy time period between Sept. 9 and Sept. 17.
Despite the industry's economic doldrums, a few designers are adding an extra show for Spring 2010 — Ralph Lauren is upgrading from two showings to three in his usual morning-of-the-last-day spot; Phillip Lim is following in close friend Richard Chai's footsteps, doing a two separate shows this season, one for men's and one for women's, rather than combining them like he usually does; and Thom Browne, who chose to show his Fall 2009 collection in Florence instead of at New York Fashion Week, is back on the schedule with not one but two shows.
London-based designer Marios Schwab will become the creative director at Halston effective July 1st. His first collection at the helm will be Fall 2010.
The team at POP just launched a new website for the magazine, which promises to be full of original content.
Gap plans to launch online stores in Canada and the U.K. by 2010, followed by Japan in 2011. They will also open stores in six new countries this year.
Thom Browne's skirt suit might not have sold out at its original price of $4,370 but on Gilt Groupe, it flew off the shelf.