>> Chanel's current ad campaign spans three generations, and at the brand's couture show today, Karl Lagerfeld highlighted the idea that Chanel is for any age, tapping 40-year-old Stella Tennant to open the show and 45-year-old Kristen McMenamy to close. VIPs galore filled the front row: Kirsten Dunst, Ines de la Fressange, Pedro Almodovar, Karen Elson, Alexa Chung, Daphne Guinness, Diane Kruger, Vanessa Paradis, and Jerry Hall, plus Baptiste Giabiconi, who, for once, didn't walk the Chanel runway. As previewed yesterday, the collection was filled with black patent mule flats and tunic dresses over skinny pants, and at the end, Lagerfeld, joined by his bride McMenamy in a dress fitted with an embroidered train of thousands of gold beads, blew the audience a kiss.
>> Two colorful campaigns for two colorful collections — but the approach for each is markedly different. The full Spring 2011 ad sets are out for both Jil Sander and Louis Vuitton; while Willy Vanderperre shot a pink-haired Daria Strokous against a washed-out white background, part of her face obscured in many of the images while the clothes take on a watercolored feel, Steven Meisel captured Kristen McMenamy, Raquel Zimmermann, and Freja Beha Erichsen in an environment of opulent excess.
>> Spring may not be in the air just yet, but the Spring 2011 ad campaigns sure are: The new year brought the release of a bevy, including Abbey Lee Kershaw's Tom Ford eyewear campaign and a look at Louis Vuitton's latest trio — Raquel Zimmermann, Kristen McMenamy, and Freja Beha Erichsen. There's also a peek at Chanel and Burberry (minus faces Ines de la Fressange for Chanel and Jourdan Dunn for Burberry, whose images have yet to appear), plus Gucci and Roberto Cavalli, left, featuring Laetitia Casta and Malgosia Bela.
Freja Beha Erichsen Cast in Both Louis Vuitton and Chanel Spring 2011 Campaigns; Fashion Design Copyright Act Headed to Senate
- Freja Beha Erichsen isn't just a Chanel face for Spring 2011 — she reportedly also posed for Louis Vuitton's Spring 2011 campaign, shot by Steven Meisel, alongside Raquel Zimmermann, and Kristen McMenamy [WWD]
- The Innovative Design Protection and Piracy Prevention Act, which aims to copyright fashion designs, was passed unanimously by the Senate Judiciary Committee and is headed for full Senate deliberation [WWD]
- Proenza Schouler's mochila totes ($225) and wallets ($145) are now available on their website [Teen Vogue]
- Missed the Alexa Chung for Madewell illustrated bat tee the first time around? It's back for sale online tomorrow, except this time, in tunic form ($58) [People StyleWatch]
- Casting director and Tales of Endearment blogger Natalie Joos sounds like she has a television project in the works: "More on that soon" [Fashionista]
- The sell-out J Brand Houlihan cargo pant was inspired by a vintage pair of army pants the brand's design director found in Japan [BoF]
- Roland Mouret sunglasses are on the horizon — they're one of the exclusive products he'll test at his first store in London's Mayfair, opening in February [WWD]
- Jewelry designers Ruby Kobo just launched their website, but won't do e-commerce — they prefer private appointments. They also hope to do a runway collaboration with Phillip Lim, Band of Outsiders, or Phoebe Philo [Fashionista]
- A street artist applied a cartoon Karl Lagerfeld decal to a New York taxi [Refinery29]
- The iPad inspiring print advertising: Vogue Russia's December 2010 issue has a video advertisement inside [Gawker]
>> The Susan Sontag quote on every Louis Vuitton attendee's seat was a clue: "The relation between boredom and camp taste cannot be overestimated," it said. What followed, starting with model Kristina Salinovic — her jet-black hair and white-streaked bangs an ode to Sontag — was "total camp glamour, clothes for the extrovert; chinoiserie, the 1920s, everything that Paris stands for," in Jacobs's words. "Basically, I didn't want anything natural," he continued. "I wanted everything overly stylized. The iris prints — like the screens you’d see in a seventies apartment — but so bad!”
The runway was black faux marble, the backdrop gold and black fringed curtains with three stuffed tigers in front. Jacobs freely admitted that he was inspired by the early work of Japanese designers in Paris — like Kenzo Takada: "Of course, these are my references. I love the exoticism, the way Paris embraced Orientalism." He further explained: “My first job was with Kansai Yamamoto. He did all those sequined motif sweaters. I always reference other designers and don’t care if I admit it!”
Kristen McMenemy closed out the show — which featured shoes with giraffe legs as heels — in a pair of black trousers, her torso painted in black and white zebra stripes. As WWD put it, "It may not have been his most stellar or controversial outing for Vuitton, but it was playful, exuberant and glam, bam, thank-you ma’am. And a whole lot of fun."
Gareth Pugh's Surprise Spring 2011 Video Presentation Left Many Wishing They Could Have Seen the Clothes Better
>> Yesterday, just like he did for Fall 2009, Gareth Pugh surprised press and retailers with a film in place of a runway show. Pugh, who collaborated again with Ruth Hogben on the 11-minute film featuring Kristen McMenamy, said that he was searching for a runway alternative because: “With a show, a lot rides on that very small amount of time and the whole thing comes down to image. If a model trips or has a problem with shoes, that is the thing that endures. It is liberating for a designer not to have to worry about a show. You can get the models to be even more expressive and do it all in a more concise way.”
Suzy Menkes notes that "the feeling persists that backing off from a runway show is a cop-out or a sign of weakness." Pugh says he is aware of "the perception . . . that people aren’t willing to accept something else [besides a runway show],” and distributed a lookbook of the clothes at the end of the presentation as “a way not to scare people off."
The lack in ability to see the clothes at the presentation was a complaint from a number of attendees, however. WWD wrote: "The film wasn’t really a presentation of Pugh’s clothes, but a presentation of his presentation . . . The imagery was heavily manipulated, so judgment on the clothes was withheld until the classic runway shots arrived, showing what looked like a great collection with a lot to offer commercially." The Los Angeles Times's Booth Moore Tweeted: "Why do we watch runway shows live? Because you can't see the clothes on film. Sorry Gareth, that didn't cut it." The International Herald Tribune's Jessica Michault Tweeted: "Is it just me or did that Gareth Pugh video look just like the last one he did a year ago?" And the Wall Street Journal's Christina Binkley Tweeted: Gareth pugh is a film. Beyond art house. Can't see much of the clothes, but it's sterile and dark."
Style.com's Tim Blanks didn't seem to mind the format, however: "What Hogben's film highlighted was the fluidity and movement inherent in Pugh's clothing. A runway could never have done that—nor could the lookbook images that were circulated after the screening."
>> After walking in Calvin Klein's Fall 2010 runway lineup, 46-year-old nineties icon Kristen McMenamy is featured in all her grey-haired glory on both August's Dazed & Confused cover and inside the pages of Vogue.
McMenamy made the decision six years ago to stop dying her hair. “You’ve got to keep moving forward,” she told Vogue. “You can get older and still be rock-’n’-roll. I thought all that gray hair would make a beautiful picture.”
But despite the decision to go au naturel, it sounds like she doesn't get to evade a dye job altogether: “I have one big black streak in the center of my hair. It sounds really cool, but it’s not. Josh [McMenamy's hairdresser] lightens it to match the rest.”
>> Kristen McMenamy on Having "Fat Day[s]" —Kristen McMenamy has worked with the best, but much as Lara Stone recently said she's tired of being the "fat one," Kristen admits that she, too, finds faults with her body: "I have to say though, I like my body more than my face. I never liked my face, it was always not right. Sometimes it looks good in a picture. We’re all the same: I can have a fat month and I can feel totally horrible in my skinny jeans, and then the next month I can be four pounds less and I’ll feel great . . . I know people will hate me saying that – I’m a model – but the way you feel in your mind is the same. In your head it’s a fat day. And I look at people who are curvy and I am crazy with jealousy over them. The truth is that even I am fooled by magazines. I look at Heat or something like that and I think ‘they’re all so gorgeous, they all have perfect wardrobes, and perfect bodies and blah blah blah,’ and here I am a model! I still fall for it. I put down Heat and I hate my face. So if I can be fooled everyone can be fooled.” [LOVE]
>> Steven Meisel co-opted the Twitter phenomenon for the last Vogue Italia issue of the decade — December 2009 — and rechristened Twitpic "Meiselpic" for his purposes. Inside the issue he wrote to his 20 model "followers" under a blurred portrait of himself — surprising, as the photographer is reclusive and does not like to be photographed himself —"Feeling a touch swine flu . . . so not coming to work today. I'm sending you some clothes . . . wear what you like, Meiselpic it back to me. xxSteven." What comes next — and is featured on the cover — are twenty pages of model self-portraits in the style of Twitpic. Lara Stone took the below picture of herself and "Twittered" underneath: "I love my new boobs. Werk!!" A pregnant Gisele snaps herself in lingerie, covering up her bump, and "Tweets": "Privacy is beautiful!" And Freja Beha Erichsen, who's not known to be a Meisel favorite, makes a surprise appearance, as well.