odile gilbert

What do you get when you put together 50 sheets of gold and silver leaf from Paris, MAC Pro Pigment in Acid Orange and a nail polish called "Fashion"? The look at Rodarte, which the designers referred to as "Beautiful Androids."

Using Aveda products, hairstylist Odile Gilbert smoothed models' hair into buns that resembled pin cushions, coated them with gobs of gel and covered them with gold (for blondes) and silver (for brunettes). "It was a conversation between the designers and me, we wanted something really graphic and futuristic," Gilbert joked backstage.

As for the makeup, "We're doing a kind of Ziggy Stardust look but mixing this orange feeling with a very natural feeling, so we're using a really translucent foundation to begin with, so the skin is really luminous," explained James Kaliardos. "We're lightening the eyebrows on some of the girls by brushing some foundation in — you can only do it if you have blonde hair. We're using an orange lip liner on the eye to make a boomerang shape and going over it with the orange pigment. We're also using orange-y peachy blush called Fun & Games high in the cheek bones and a salmon-colored lipstick. Curling lashes, no mascara. The idea is a monochromatic look, but not in brown tones or pinks — something more."

To see all my pics from backstage, read more

Ever want to know what a sardine must feel like? Most of the people backstage at last night's 3.1 Phillip Lim show could tell you. Luckily, I was able to duck in and speak with Nars makeup artist Ayako and the gifted hair stylist Odile Gilbert, who was working with Aveda.

While taking a break with her adorable (and very well-behaved) doggy, Ayako explained the inspiration for the look of the show's heroine. "She's very strong and confident in a very modern way," she said. "Eighties eyebrows and '30s lips meet together for Phillip's collection." To create the look, Ayako used a Botan brush to give a very light dusting of powder foundation only on models who needed it. Then, eyebrow hairs were drawn on individually for a manga effect. Eyes were completely bare, as were cheeks, but lips got a pop of red with semi-matte lipsticks in Fire Down Below and Scarlett Empress.

In the hair-styling section, everything smelled like Aveda—such a calming encounter in the whirlwind of the backstage area. Lead stylist Odile Gilbert had a simple explanation of the hair, which softly snaked around in the back of the head. "There is not a past inspiration," she said. "It's a girl from 2008. Super-simple."

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