BellaSugar

Dr. Obagi's Anti-Moisturizer Theory Explained

BellaSugar — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 07:01:43 -0700

Who knew that moisturizer could create such a stir? Recently, I interviewed Dr. Zein Obagi of ZO Skin Health regarding anti-aging skin care, his area of expertise. As we learned, Dr. Obagi is not an advocate of moisturizers, claiming that they can actually accelerate the aging process. As promised, here's further explanation.

Can you clarify why moisturizers accelerate aging?
"It seems antithetical - a moisturizer was probably the first product that you used on your skin - and the one you trusted and used most frequently. . . With young and healthy skin, the cells in the dermis collect water from the food we eat and water we drink, and deliver that water to the surface of the skin. But, when you apply a moisturizer to hydrate and plump the skin, the skin cells in the epidermis send a message to the cells in the dermis: slow down, we’re fat and happy up here. That causes the cells in the dermis to become lazy, go dormant, and the skin becomes drier, thinner, and less elastic."

To hear what Dr. Obagi told me about why he sells creams and what conditions make it OK to use a moisturizer, read more.

Why do you sell two different crèmes, and what makes them different?
"I’m not a fan of moisturizers that plump and smooth the skin, and work only at the surface. The products need to work at the cellular level. The Daily Renewal Crème ($95) and Overnight Recovery Crème ($95) do have moisturizing properties, but that’s not all that they do. So unlike traditional moisturizers, these two products contain retinol (to activate and stimulate the skin) as well as anti-irritants and herbal extracts to calm and soothe the skin. So do they moisturize? Yes. But labeling them as moisturizers would be an understatement."

What conditions would make it OK to use moisturizers?
"Moisturizers are OK under certain conditions:

. . . We want to keep skin cells functioning - that’s what keeps [them] awake and vital. If you activate and stimulate your skin, and use a product that moisturizes your skin, that’s OK.
After medical procedures (lasers or peels) that may be desirable or necessary.
When you’re traveling to an arid climate - such as Palm Springs or Las Vegas, where the air is very dry.
When you’re traveling in an airplane, where the cabin air may dehydrate your skin."

Do you think Dr. Obagi's explanation makes sense?

Source

Dr. Obagi: Moisturizers Make You Age

BellaSugar — Tue, 10 Mar 2009 07:01:07 -0700

When it comes to skin, we're all aging - whether we like it or not. Recently, I interviewed dermatologist Dr. Zein Obagi of ZO Skin Health. I asked him a few questions regarding his specialty, anti-aging skin care, and he had plenty to say. Here's a bit; more to come!

How is it that pimples and wrinkles can occur at the same time? Talk about a double whammy!
The two problems may occur at the same time, but they have different causes. Pimples are related to oil gland activity, the amount of sebum produced, and pores. Oil glands are hyperactive in some individuals (hormones, genetic factors), resulting in acne and rosacea when pores become clogged. Acne has nothing to do with age. Wrinkles are due to loss and destruction of collagen without replacement, due to cell inactivity. Both problems can and do, sometimes, occur at the same time.

What products/techniques can actually do the reverse, causing premature aging and/or wrinkling?
Moisturizers, when used daily as part of a skin care program, will accelerate aging and wrinkling of the skin, as they reduce cellular activity, causing the cells to become lazy and sensitive. Repeated AHA use, IPL [Intense Pulsed Light], and photo-rejuvenation treatments without cell stimulation, will reduce the skin's ability to regenerate healthy functioning cells.

Come back later this week for more of Dr. Obagi's thoughts on healthy aging and skin care.
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Coming Soon: Biore Preservation Skincare Collection For "In-Between" Skin

BellaSugar — Mon, 02 Mar 2009 06:00:22 -0800

Just when you think you're in the clear with acne outbursts, the first signs of aging start to develop. Pimples and fine lines - double whammy! If this sounds familiar, you might be experiencing something that's known as transitional skin. So far, the market for this unique skin type has been largely untapped, until now.
Recently, I had the opportunity to try out a new line from Biore called the Preservation Skincare collection, which targets those during that in-between phase. It comes out soon, and promises to reduce fine lines, increase radiance, strengthen the skin's barrier function, and neutralize free radicals. But does it work? Find out what I thought, along with a list of the products when you read more.

A little goes a long way with this collection. One pump - even half a pump - of each product does the trick, otherwise, my face felt a bit oversaturated, almost oily. After a few days of usage, my skin was smooth, and I didn't get any breakouts. A major plus. The only things I'd like to see added would be a toner and perhaps an acne spot treatment. Oh, and I was just so-so on the radiance factor. Other than that this line is worth a shot if you're willing to spend $67 for the entire regimen.

The Clean Things Up Nourishing Gel Cleanser ($7) - High-foaming with a fruity scent.
Even Smoother Microderm Exfoliator ($15) - A not-too-aggressive creamy exfoliator with a fine grit.
Dual Fusion Moisturizer + SPF ($15) - Loved the fact that this hydrator has an SPF of 30 that didn't make my face turn white.
Hard Day's Night Overnight Moisturizer ($15) - Has the texture of a serum/moisturizer. It was a bit heavy for my liking.
See The Future Fortifying Eye Cream ($15) - I love gel eye creams, and this one did indeed reduce my puffiness. I'd like to see a little more moisture in this one, however.

Doing Drugstore: Revlon Age Defying Instant Firming Face Primer

BellaSugar — Tue, 30 Sep 2008 10:00:20 -0700

As you may know, I often get to chat with makeup artists about what tricks they use to create beautiful makeup palettes. Continually, I hear about primers, primers, primers. And you know what? Those makeup artists know what they are talking about, so I decided to try Revlon's Age Defying Instant Firming Face Primer ($12.99).

First off, the smell of this primer is very odd. I can't quite place my finger on it, but it's rather potent, with almost a chemical/outdoorsy scent. Since I tend to get a little oily, I chose the normal/combination formula (also comes available for dry skin), and although it felt lightweight to the touch, within a few hours my skin looked a little more shiny than I would have liked.

Formulated with something called Botafirm to tighten the skin, the best part of my Revlon primer experience was an increased performance in the longevity of my foundation, and my makeup glided on more evenly. I also noticed that the product made my skin look brighter and softer, without causing breakouts - a huge plus.

All-in-all this primer did what it was supposed to do (create a smooth canvas on the skin), but I wasn't wowed by the supposed tightening factor or slightly heavy feel. Plus, the tube didn't dispense the product evenly, and I was disappointed that I seemed to waste so much of this relatively expensive drugstore item.

See reader reviews and add your own here!

Bella Interview: Amy Keller, Allure Beauty Director

BellaSugar — Fri, 30 May 2008 15:25:38 -0700

And so we come to the conclusion of my interview with Amy Keller, the beauty director of Allure. If you missed any of the previous posts, be sure to catch up on them for her advice on beauty and the magazine biz. We'll finish things up today with a few thoughts on antiaging products. If you've been a faithful user of sunblock, you will be very happy to see what Amy has to say!

I’m totally obsessed with sunblock. I’m like a crazy lady who always has to wear it. Is everyone at Allure obsessed, too?
Yes, everyone here is totally obsessed with sunblock. I absolutely wear sunscreen every day. When I even get daytime moisturizer sent to me without sunscreen, I just don’t even understand why people are launching them - because what’s the point? It simplifies sunscreen by having it in your face cream. Also, I’m kind of obsessed with the new face washes that have sunscreen ingredients that actually don’t totally go down the drain. St. Ives has a new one, so you can get it in the drugstores; Freeze 24/7 had the first one that came out last year. So that just makes things even easier. Not that that’s the only thing you should use for sunscreen, but it's good to put it on. We are really into Helioplex here, which is in Neutrogena and Aveeno products.

It's good to hear you say that. I'm starting to see the payoff of wearing sunblock.
It’s very true! We are obsessed with antioxidants here, like coffeeberry, which is in those Revale skin products we have done several stories on. I feel like every dermatologist I have talked to says that if you combine antioxidants and sunscreen, it makes such a difference. One dermatologist said that if you look at women who are age 25, you might not be able to tell who is wearing antioxidants. But if you look at women who are age 35, you will totally be able to tell who has been wearing antioxidants and sunscreen because their skin looks so much younger.

All About Eye Creams

BellaSugar — Wed, 28 May 2008 07:00:50 -0700

After reading this Beauty Product Junkies post and informally talking with a few friends, one thing is clear: Few people are clear on what eye creams do and whether you need them. So here are a few FAQs about eye cream. (If you have other questions, just leave a comment.)

Do I really need an eye cream?
Yes; to protect the delicate area around your eyes, you need to apply moisturizer every day.

Can't I just use my normal face cream?
Sure - it's up to you. The skin around your eyes isn't inherently different from the skin on, say, your cheeks. If you like your moisturizer, there's no reason not to use it near your eyes. Depending on your skin type, you may prefer (as I do) to use a separate eye cream. If you have oily skin, for instance, you may want a hydrating eye cream but a mattifying face lotion. But there's nothing holding you back from using the same moisturizer all over your skin.

To find out whether eye creams can eliminate your wrinkles, read more.

Eye creams can get rid of wrinkles, right?
Nope. No cream can actually eliminate existing wrinkles. If that were the case, people wouldn't try Botox, would they?

Crud. Well, what can they do, then?
A good eye cream keeps your skin moist, which minimizes the look of wrinkles and can hydrate skin - which, in turn, can reduce puffiness and prevent your skin from forming more wrinkles. An eye cream with glycolic acid can help exfoliate your skin, which will make crow's feet look less deep. Emollient creams with silicones or glycerin can create a smoother surface on the skin, which minimizes the look of wrinkles.

Also, keep an eye out for creams that brighten your skin superficially. Olay Definity Intense Hydrating Cream ($29.99) isn't just for the eyes (see? I told you!) but along with anti-aging amino acids, it contains mica particles that reflect light. It's just a cosmetic change, but it makes an immediate improvement in your appearance.

What else do I need to know?
A daytime eye cream - or any daytime facial moisturizer, for that matter - is worthless if it doesn't contain a sunscreen that blocks both UVA and UVB rays. The best way to prevent wrinkles from forming around your eyes is to wear SPF 15 or 30 day in, day out. You can pile on a $300 eye cream each night, but if you're not using sunscreen in conjunction with it, you're throwing away your money.

Source

Bella Quiz: How Well Are You Aging?

BellaSugar — Mon, 12 May 2008 08:00:01 -0700

Wrinkles and sun spots are far from the worst thing in the world, but if you can prevent looking tired and aged before necessary, why not do so? A few easy lifestyle changes can help you look and feel healthy, no matter whether you're 20, 40, or 60. To find out if you're doing all that you can - and to get some specific suggestions for aging gracefully - just read on.

Source

How often do you smoke cigarettes?

At least once a day.

Occasionally; I'll light up at parties, but that's about it.

I used to smoke, but I don't anymore.

I've never smoked.

How often do you wear sunblock?

Never

Only when I know I'll be outside for a long time

Only when it's sunny outside

Every day

How do you handle stress?

Very easily. I have little stress in my life.

Pretty well. I keep the little things in perspective, but a few things get to me.

Not so well. I tend to get worked up frequently.

Horribly. I'm constantly a bundle of nerves!

What's closest to your typical dinner?

A frozen dinner, followed by a serving of Ben & Jerry's

Fast food or a meal from the local takeout place

A light dinner such as salmon with steamed veggies and brown rice

I don't always eat dinner.

How much sleep do you get each night, on average?

7–8 hours

5–6 hours

6 hours or less

When it comes to alcohol, you are...

A teetotaler

Not going to turn down a glass of wine now and then

Happy to party on the weekends

Sauced 24/7

Are you using any products with vitamin A derivatives such as retinol?

Yes

Fantastic Firming Creams, Part IV: Lips

BellaSugar — Thu, 06 Mar 2008 16:00:52 -0800

Since your lips and eyes have thin skin, they tend to show signs of aging more quickly than other areas of the body. Lip-firming products contain high concentrations of vitamins and anti-inflammatory agents, and they lessen the look of enlarged pores. Here are three products that have been recommended to me.

Pevonia Botanica Youthful Lip Cream ($46) sounds like the end-all, be-all lip-firming treatment. It's a great product for anyone who has yellow stains and/or fine wrinkles around their mouth from smoking. It contains SPF, timed-release retinol (to plump and smooth), shea butter (to moisturize and heal), and azelaic acid (to slightly lighten). Apparently, it also works great as a lipstick base. Apply twice daily and gently massage into the skin.

For two more firming and line-reducing lip creams, read more.

($33) is a great product for those of you with dehydrated crepey skin around your mouth. It has an intense moisturizing effect and is formulated with vitamins C and E and topical polyphenols to help firm and rejuvenate your skin.

Caudalie Anti-Aging Serum Eyes and Lips ($70) claims to firm the skin around your eyes and lips, de-puff, diminish fine lines and wrinkles (and even help with dark circles). It should also smooth out the texture of your skin and help seal in much needed moisture.

Over-The Top Serum Splurges

BellaSugar — Thu, 14 Feb 2008 09:00:00 -0800

Sometimes you just feel like indulging yourself in ridiculously expensive beauty products from time to time. Maybe it's your birthday, you've received a bonus, or perhaps you just have a chunk of change that's been burning a hole in your pocket. Regardless of how you've saved your pennies, here are a couple of over-the-top new beauty indulgences to check out. I personally haven't been able to strike gold and try out these items yet, so if you have, I'd love to know how they compare to more affordable brands. Keep in touch!

This month, Chanel is releasing Sublimage Sèrum Essential Regenerating Concentrate, a highly concentrated and powerful anti-aging treatment to partner with its popular Sublimage Cream. The Chanel research team has spared no expense in developing this lightweight serum to help combat wrinkles, firm and hydrate the skin.

So, if a rejuvenated and youthful complexion is what you crave, you can purchase radiance in a one ounce airless pump bottle for $385!

For another totally over-the top serum splurge, read more.

ReVive Intensite Volumizing Serum contains a molecule called KGF that aids in plumping and creating a more dewy overall texture to your skin. It also subtly whitens your face for a brighter complexion and offers UVB protection.

The serum comes in a 30ml bottle which costs-wait for it-$600. I guess it costs less than having a major procedure, however, this is a pretty penny to part with for a topical treatment. What do you think of these pricey products?

New Product Alert: Dr. Brandt's Contour Effect Cream

BellaSugar — Thu, 27 Dec 2007 12:00:02 -0800

Did you get some gift cards this holiday? If so, Dr. Brandt has a thick and luxurious antiaging, complexion-boosting lotion called Contour Effect ($185) that might be up your alley. It was developed as a last-ditch effort for Dr. Brandt's patients, who asked him for a firming fountain-of-youth product to try before undergoing cosmetic surgery.

Made with antioxidants and other powerful ingredients such as mamaku essence (to stimulate and tone skin tissues), calmosensine (to relax the skin), and bacocalmine (an antistress herb to calm irritations) skin should look more even toned, firmer and supple. It also enriches seriously dehydrated or dry skin, as well as stimulates cells and promotes increased regeneration. To use, just apply a small amount to a clean face and neck in the morning. If your skin is excessively dry, you can also use it in the evening.

While I doubt that this topical cream can work miracles to turn back the hands of time, it does have peptides to help slow down the aging process. And on the off chance that you've got an extra $185 burning a hole in your pocket, I hope you'll try it and let everyone know how well it works!