BellaSugar

Peek Inside a Perfumer's Atelier

Miriam Lacey — Tue, 18 Jan 2011 06:00:36 PST

In her work Essence and Alchemy, Mandy Aftel describes perfumers as the modern-day inheritors of the alchemical tradition, following in the footsteps of those men fervently obsessed with finding the Philosopher's Stone and turning base metals into gold. And when you visit the atelier where she mixes up her highly fragranced potions, you can't help but agree. There's something bewitching about the rare essences, the old books, and the quiet, pretty tinkling of colored glass, and I left fairly well ensorcelled myself. Mandy showed me around, let me take a million pictures, and told me all about how some of the rarest and most controversial ingredients go from the natural world into lovely little flacons. So to learn about everything from ambergris's origins inside sperm whales to how a perfumer comes up with new scents, just keep reading.

Aftelier Has Achingly Lovely Solid Perfume Compacts

Miriam Lacey — Thu, 16 Dec 2010 09:00:23 PST

Meet my newest love: this beautifully rendered vintage solid perfume compact ($300) from Aftelier Perfumes. If you, like myself, have an extreme weakness for petite, elegant fragrance keepers, the luxe antique cases at Aftelier are worth more than a glance. They're also likely to make you stare longingly into your wallet wishing additional funds would appear there, but if you're looking for something to do with that holiday bonus check, they'd make a gorgeous keepsake. And take heart: the price includes a full-sized solid Aftelier fragrance of your choice, so most of what you're paying for is scent.

More People Are Making Their Own Natural Perfume

BellaSugar — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 13:00:18 PDT

In effort to eschew conventional, overly potent synthetic scents, some people have been hitting the bottle. That would be the 190-proof bottle of Everclear or neutral grape alcohol, which are commonly used as bases for creating homemade scents. As ambitious as it may be, natural perfumery involves mixing or pressing together stems, herbs, and petals to make tinctures, and it's an art that is on the rise.

Call it a modern form of alchemy, if you will. Or just call it a way to become reconnected with what nature has to offer. "People are so often in front of their computer screens and detached from the sensual world," natural perfumer Mandy Aftel told the NYT. Natural perfumes may not be cheap, but they're appreciated. In fact, instructor Jeanne Rose, who teaches fragrance classes throughout the country and out of her San Francisco home, recently added more classes to her roster due to popularity.

And there's also the Internet, where perfumer Anya McCoy offers online classes as well as an outlet for DIY fragrance makers through her Yahoo group. Making your own scent may take some time and practice, but have you ever tried it out before? If not, would you consider becoming a natural perfumer?

Four Tips For Choosing a Fragrance

BellaSugar — Mon, 22 Dec 2008 08:00:22 PST

Recently, I popped into noted natural perfumer Mandy Aftel's Berkeley, CA studio for a tour. I found it quite inspirational to see someone so passionate about her work. Seriously, the enthusiasm was contagious.

So, when I told Aftel that picking a fragrance is a difficult task for me (as I'm sure it is for many of you), she gave me some cool tips I'll definitely be remembering next time I cross paths with the fragrance aisle.

Love the dry down - When it comes to picking an aroma you'll love, "It's important to get down to that dry down note - which is that last note that's left on your skin - because that's what's going to stay with you," Aftel said.
Don't judge a bottle by its cover - Aftel recommends not even looking at the bottle or names on the label. Just go on smell alone. Hey, in that case, there must be some real gems in this photo collection of ugly perfume bottles.

Discover the other two tips when you

Follow your appetite - For inspiration, "look to what you are attracted to from eating and gardening," she said. Think of wood, leaves, blossoms at night, orange, or the smell of a cup of tea, for instance. "Use your experiences in the natural world to guide you towards ingredients," she advised.
Use your digits - While sampling many of Aftel's essential oils and perfumes, with every dab she applied to my skin, it was always done to a new finger each time. When I asked her why the fingers, she said, "Oh, it's just to keep track." Why didn't I ever think of that? It's like having ten of those perfume sampling sticks at your fingertips. Hey-o.

Source

How-To: Make Your Own Perfume Solid With Tips From Mandy Aftel

BellaSugar — Mon, 08 Dec 2008 09:00:11 PST

According to Allure, "The trend toward using natural ingredients was pioneered by perfumer and author Mandy Aftel."

Well, guess what? Last week I had the pleasure of meeting with the famed perfumer in her Berkeley, CA studio. We covered everything from beautifully stanky scents to trends in the industry to advice on selecting fragrances. And when I asked her if she had any do-it-yourself ideas for holiday gifting, she definitely delivered.

In her book, Scents & Sensibilities: Creating Solid Perfumes for Well-Being (approximately $5), Aftel provides a "recipe" for creating your own solid perfume. While the talented perfume maker sells her Single Solids, Double Solids, and the ultra-luxe One-of-a-Kind Antique Cases on her website, you can create these thoughtful and easy gifts for your friends and loved ones on your own. Learn how to make these sweet smelling compacts when you

How-To Make 'Em

In a beaker or small bowl, combine 1 teaspoon of jojoba oil with 20 drops of essential oil. Example: 7 drops of ylang ylang and 13 drops of grapefruit (see more of Aftel's combos below). She recommends Whole Foods or your local health food store as a go-to place for inexpensive oils.
Melt 1/2 teaspoon of grated beeswax over heat (she used a hot plate).
Mix oils and wax together, then pour into a small container. Aftel recommends using antique cases, small tins, or lip balm jars - basically anything that closes with a latch, is not too deep, and is rounded in shape for easier finger scoopage. Your solid will set in about 10 minutes.

Great Essential Oil Combos

Clary sage and rosewood.
Patchouli with either rose, ylang ylang, or frankincense.
Plain ol' vanilla extract will work, too - imitation not allowed.

Photo courtesy of Mandy Aftel

Perfumer Mandy Aftel on Food-Based Fragrance Trend

BellaSugar — Fri, 05 Dec 2008 10:00:11 PST

Last week, I met renowned natural perfumer, author, and owner of Aftelier Perfumes, Mandy Aftel, in her visually stunning Berkeley, CA studio.

With wood built-ins, glass bottles lining the windows, and apothecary style furnishings, it was a little Frank Lloyd Wright with a pinch of Harry Potter. Topped off with the collective smell of essential oils and perfumes? Yeah, it was pretty much like heaven.

When it comes to industry trends, "Food-based smells are quite popular right now," she says. Oh, gourmand, you say? I sampled her Layering Gourmand Trio ($125), which was complex, inviting, and - well, delicious.

"Natural materials really mix with your body chemistry in a very interesting way, then they kind of fade away," she says. . .They have that soft arc that I think is very sexy." Humina, humina. As for this set? The three pieces can be worn apart or together for maximum sensuality. Find out which aromas are included when you

Cassis: A great Fall fragrance with notes of black currant and rum.
Cocao: A blend of jasmine, blood orange, and cocao from a Costa Rican plantation. Psst - Aftel distills the cocao herself.
Fig: A mix of fir absolute, jasmine sambac, and yuzu, duplicating the aroma of this sweet fruit to a tee. Speaking of "tea," she makes that, too - of the perfumed variety, of course.

Photo courtesy of Mandy Aftel

Three Lovely Natural Perfumes From Mandy Aftel

Miriam Lacey — Sun, 10 Apr 2011 07:10:00 PDT

This year, the Fragrance Foundation has nominated three of Many Aftel's fragrances for prestigious FiFi Awards. Mandy's fragrances are truly all natural, and most of her ingredients are organically sourced, so wearing them is a very different experience if you're used to synthetics the way I am. I gave all three of her FiFi finalists (Candide, Honey Blossom, and Lumiere) a wear, so to see what I thought of each, just keep reading.

See the 2011 FiFi Awards Nominees

Miriam Lacey — Wed, 30 Mar 2011 10:50:00 PDT

Perfume-ophiles everywhere have been waiting with bated breath for the official announcement of the 2011 FiFi Awards nominees, and now they're here. Each year, The Fragrance Foundation holds its equivalent of the Oscars, awarding the best in perfumery in categories ranging from luxury to indie to mass market.

This year, my picks are Candide, a gorgeous jasmine fragrance from the amazing Mandy Aftel, and Anthropologie's beautiful collaboration with Le Labo, but there are several great scents competing. Want to see if your favorite scored a nomination? Then just keep reading.

Six Fragrance Types at a Glance

BellaSugar — Tue, 30 Dec 2008 12:00:31 PST

The big trend right now in fragrance is gourmand, or food-based aromas, according to perfume expert Mandy Aftel. So what does it all mean anyway? Are you a floral kind of gal or does chypre do it for you? In case you're uncertain, check out six of some of the more popular fragrance category definitions below. Then, impress your friends with your olfactory group knowledge about the "juice" - 'cuz you know, that's how it's referred to in the biz.

Chypre: fresh, mossy, and leatherish	Gourmand: sweet and food-inspired	Florals: romantic, feminine, and smooth
Fougère: fresh, floral, and herbaceous	Orientals: sensual, exotic, and spicy	Citrus: crisp, light, and energizing