BellaSugar

Five Beauty Secrets of Fashion Week

BellaSugar — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:00:19 -0800

Phew. It's been a long two weeks of fashion shows, but I'm definitely invigorated by so many of the hair and makeup looks. I'm also excited to share some behind-the-scenes secrets with you-the kind of stuff you don't usually hear about.

Fashion Week Fact #1: Runway hair isn't always expensive.
The Sari Gueron show (pictured) was running an hour late, so I had plenty of time to watch the hair and makeup teams prepare. Herbal Essences sponsored the hair for this show, and I was curious to see if the stylists actually used the drugstore brand's products, or whether they sneaked some high-end stuff in there. To my delight, the stylists used only Herbal Essences, proving that it's skill, not price, that lets you create a gorgeous look.

Fashion Week Fact #2: Model complexions vary.
You'll be glad to know that models, like the rest of us, have the occasional blemish, blackhead, and other skin problem. You just don't see it easily because their makeup is so professionally done. Then again, about 30% of the models had flawless complexions. Seriously, I couldn't even find a pore on this girl. Moral of the story: Models break out, too, except for a lucky few.

For two more secrets, including the $7.49 mascara that I spied at more than a few shows, read more.

Fashion Week Fact #3: Yes, you really can go cheap on mascara.
I went to three shows where a drugstore mascara was being used. The winning formula: L'Oreal Voluminous mascara ($7.49).

Fashion Week Fact #4: Using your fingers isn't such a bad idea.
While every makeup artist I saw was using brushes to apply eye color, some used their fingers to pat on cream blush, lipstick, and concealer. Yes, makeup brushes will improve your application of most products. But with some products, fingers are just as useful.

Fashion Week Fact #5: Thinking outside the box is key.
Lipstick used as eye shadow. Rosebud salve used as blush. A dot of Vaseline on the eyelids. All of these things worked on the runway, so they can work for you, too. Don't be afraid to experiment a little bit by using your favorite lipstick as a blush, and see where you go from there.

Backstage Beauty: Inbar Spector

BellaSugar — Fri, 15 Feb 2008 14:30:02 -0800

My final stop at London Fashion Week was the Inbar Spector show, where the hair, makeup, and clothing had a completely different feel than any of the other "pretty" looks I've seen in the past. This was pure creativity rearing its head in the overall theme of "rebellious Gothic."

Stylists crimped hair all around, then swept it into a tight bun on top of the head. Two tightly braided tendrils were left on either side.

The makeup was just as intricate. Inbar hired makeup artist Lan Nguyen because of her avant-garde style and her bold use of color. If rebellious and goth is what Inbar wanted, that's just what she got. Lips and nails were black, skin was pale yet sculpted, and the eyebrows were all-out punk.

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For a breakdown of the MAC products used to create this look, plus application tips, read more.

Lan prepped each of the models faces with Prep and Prime mattifying primer and then blended Face and Body Foundation onto their faces and necks.
All of the powder contour colors on the cheeks are from MAC Pro Shaping Powder collections. First, apply Sculpt to the cheekbone and then right above the bone, dust a little bit of Accentuate all the way to the ear. Finish with some Emphasize on the temples and around hairline.
Since the eyebrows need to be prepped for the glitter, Lan applied Brow Finisher in Clear to keep the hair down and act as an adhesive. She then applied MAC Pro Glitter in Reflects Pearl starting from the base of the lid to the brow-bone and to the inner v of the eye. Next, she used white eyeliner pencil on the inner lower rims. For the brows, she used a black glitter she concocted from a few MAC glitter options and placed individual false lashes on the top lashes followed by black mascara.
Lips were lined with Ebony Eye Pencil and filled in with Blacktrack Gel Liner. As a finishing touch, Clear Gloss was dabbed in the center of the lower lip.

Backstage Beauty: Armand Basi

BellaSugar — Thu, 14 Feb 2008 14:00:21 -0800

Yesterday afternoon, I checked out the Armand Basi fashion show at the historic Banqueting House in London. Just like the grand landmark setting, the behind-the-scenes area was really something to admire. This was by far the most organized and spacious backstage space I have yet to encounter this week.

The models had a private changing area away from peeping photographers and media, and hair and makeup each had their own fully-equipped workstations. I spoke with lead hair stylist Paul Hanlon who collaborated with Armand to come up with big hair to complement the voluminous clothing. The look they went for was, as he put it, "young, fresh, teased, and fluffy - not lady-like."

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For a step-by-step guide on how to create this stylish ponytail at home, read more.

Apply a generous amount of thickening spray to the mid-lengths and ends of dry hair and work it through using your fingers. Do not brush hair.

Next, back-comb the crown and the sides of the hair starting from the roots to the mid-length in sections. Then, massage the sides of the hair to fluff it up.

Using your hands, gather the hair into a mid-head ponytail and secure with a strong elastic. Begin to back-brush the ponytail using a Mason Pearson brush for added fullness. Tip: if your hair is very straight, use a curling iron on the ends of the ponytail to give hair extra body.

Lastly, mist a medium-hold hairspray all over the hair.

Backstage Beauty: English Eccentrics

BellaSugar — Tue, 12 Feb 2008 16:00:54 -0800

Yesterday afternoon following the Felder Felder fashion show in London came the 2008 Fall English Eccentrics show. I went backstage to get the lowdown on the makeup look from clothing designer Helen David and Nars lead makeup artist Jane Richardson.

The inspiration for the show was based on a fairytale written by the designer. Miss Magritte (the protagonist) is a schoolgirl who gradually evolves into a style slave after she is bitten in her sleep by a fashion vampire. Her clothing goes from sweet to edgy and her makeup encompasses both looks. Cheeks are sweet and bright but the color is high and far back for a more modern look. Lips are berry colored and matte, and false eyelashes are placed in the center of the lid - not on the lash line.

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To find out what products were used and how you can apply them at home to create this makeup look, read more.

Face: Jane prepped all of the models' skin with Nars Brightening Serum all over the face to even out the skin tone.

Cheeks: Then, she applied a little bit of Copacabana Multiple all over the face for a milky complexion with the hint of a moonlight glow. Next, she chose a fluorescent shade of semimatte lipstick called Schiap and with a brush, she blended some onto the highest and back part of the cheekbones. A little bit of Desire Powder Blush (a bright, cotton candy pink color) was added for more pop. The cheeks, nose, and forehead were then set with a light dusting of Nico Powder Blush (a pale natural shade).

Eyes: Then, Jane applied Penelope Cream Eye Shadow (a pale-pink shade) over the entire eyelid and then dusted the lids with Nico Powder Blush to set the cream. She then added a little bit of Albatross (a powder highlighter) to give the lids subtle shimmer. Next, she placed false eyelashes in the crease of the eye, which is quite unusual, but it looked really edgy. She finished the eyes with mascara on both the false and real lashes and then applied Triple X (clear) Lip Gloss to the lower part of the lids under the false lashes for sheen.

Lips: Since the cheeks and eyes were the focal points, the lips were pretty muted. Jane used the new Spring 2008 Belle de Jour Velvet Matte Lip Pencil (neutral beigey-pink) all over the mouth with no lip liner and no gloss on top.

Backstage Beauty: Felder Felder

BellaSugar — Mon, 11 Feb 2008 14:00:50 -0800

Today marks day three of London Fashion Week, and I was lucky enough to sneak a peek behind the scenes at the Felder Felder show. Felder Felder is an up-and-coming, chic German brand born in 2006 from twin sisters Daniela and Anette Felder. Sienna Miller has been spotted wearing their clothes, and just last week Vogue.com called the designers "two to watch."

While the clothing was ruffly, tight, and sexy, I, of course, was interested most in the hair and makeup.

I spoke with lead makeup artist Georgina Graham for MAC, who took me on a virtual tour through the inspiration for the look. She and the Felder sisters wanted to create a modern take on the grunge look. Hair was long, loose, and rumpled and the focus of the makeup was dark, heavy eyes, and pale lips.

The look was based on Courtney Love, Reality Bites, MTV's My So-Called Life, and Steven Meisel's fashion photographs from the early 1990s. When she said, "think Marc Jacobs working for Anna Sui," I knew exactly what to expect.

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To find out how to create this grungey look, read more.

Prep skin, curl lashes, and apply lip balm.

Skip concealer and eye cream since you are going for a very natural face. First, apply Black Track gel liner all over the eyelid, making a round shape. Then, apply Smut Eye Shadow (muted black) to top lids. Follow with Shadowy Lady Eye Shadow (dark plum) in the crease, and blend upwards into a round shape.

Next, apply a dot of Knight Divine Eye Shadow (silvery black) in the center of the lids by the lash line for shine.

This is a really heavy eye, so clean up any fallen shadow using a Q-tip covered with a bit of NC20 Studio Stick Concealer. Also add a little bit of this concealer to the inner rims of the eyes (on the bottom only) for a natural effect.

Lastly, apply a little of MAC's famous strobe cream around the temples and the outer-eye area as a highlighter. Set skin with a light dusting of Loose Powder, paying close attention to the tip of the nose. Skip any blush, bronzer, or lip color.

Backstage Beauty: Temperley London

BellaSugar — Fri, 08 Feb 2008 15:00:22 -0800

Temperley London's Fall collection was sexy siren times twenty. With a feisty mix of leather, chains, and zippers, alternated with flowing silk gowns, the looks were fit for a mafia princess. And that's precisely what Charlotte Tilbury, lead makeup artist for MAC, channeled with the hair and makeup. "The hair was very Michelle Pfeiffer," she said, "silky and thick from the '70s. So we came up with a smoky eye with raw, clean skin, and a slightly patted-down mouth. It's what a cool girl would wear today."

Cool girl indeed - who didn't secretly want to be the devastatingly sexy, effortlessly powerful Pfeiffer in Scarface? To learn how to re-create this smoldering look at home, check out this MAC guide.

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Backstage Beauty: Behnaz Sarafpour

BellaSugar — Fri, 08 Feb 2008 10:00:03 -0800

Gucci Westman has been one busy woman this week. I've seen her at Miss Sixty, Rag & Bone, and then at Behnaz Sarafpour, where she worked with MAC. Here she is applying makeup to Canadian model Lisa Cant, who is almost always the first model to arrive at a show. Punctual, that one.

Gucci's team colored models' eyes with gray, yellow, or purple shades - all of which popped on their otherwise nude faces. The makeup artists used brushes to apply the color, of course, but they also used airbrushes to spray it directly on eyelashes. And in the case of the purple eyes, they got creative by smudging MAC lipstick in Violetta around eyes. Unfortunately, that particular shade of cream makeup is available only to makeup artists, but if you'd like to know which products were used for this show's yellow eye, this guide from MAC has the details.

Backstage Beauty: Brian Reyes

BellaSugar — Thu, 07 Feb 2008 16:00:22 -0800

Not much can rouse me before the crack of dawn, but yesterday I had a great reason to be up with the roosters. I had a 7 a.m. appointment to see makeup maestro Bobbi Brown create the runway look for Brian Reyes.

Inside the Plaza Hotel, Bobbi and her team of makeup artists worked to create a natural, windblown look. (Even the eyebrows were meant to look tousled.) Watching her work was amazing - she's so quick, so focused. Many of the colors are from an upcoming color collection, so if you like the look of the Brian Reyes show, be ready for some marvy mauves this Fall.

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To read my interview with Bobbi, and to see my behind-the-scenes photos, read more.

How did you come up with the face for the show?
[laughs] We're still coming up with it!

A work in progress, then?
You know, often the look you do for a makeup test works for that second. Then, when you get to the venue, especially when you do a makeup test on someone who isn't in the show, it changes. So it's a work in progress. And it was really a collaboration. My job is to intrepret Brian's vision, using the colors of the moment. So it's gone from a healthy, nude-y face with strong brows to a outdoorsy, in-the-country powdery look - the opposite of the look I did yesterday, which was all gloss everywhere. So, are there any trends? No. [laughs]

Are you using existing products from your line, or are these new colors for Fall?
A combination. We're using some from our Fall collection, which has mauve-inspired tones.

I've been seeing a lot of shows that have fresh, clean skin. Are you using concealer alone, or foundation as well?
I'm using a light foundation all over. Especially in this venue, where the lights are really strong, you need foundation all over. But the ultimate goal with foundation, when I do makeup, is that it doesn't look like they're wearing it.

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Backstage Beauty: 3.1 Phillip Lim

BellaSugar — Thu, 07 Feb 2008 10:00:29 -0800

Ever want to know what a sardine must feel like? Most of the people backstage at last night's 3.1 Phillip Lim show could tell you. Luckily, I was able to duck in and speak with Nars makeup artist Ayako and the gifted hair stylist Odile Gilbert, who was working with Aveda.

While taking a break with her adorable (and very well-behaved) doggy, Ayako explained the inspiration for the look of the show's heroine. "She's very strong and confident in a very modern way," she said. "Eighties eyebrows and '30s lips meet together for Phillip's collection." To create the look, Ayako used a Botan brush to give a very light dusting of powder foundation only on models who needed it. Then, eyebrow hairs were drawn on individually for a manga effect. Eyes were completely bare, as were cheeks, but lips got a pop of red with semi-matte lipsticks in Fire Down Below and Scarlett Empress.

In the hair-styling section, everything smelled like Aveda-such a calming encounter in the whirlwind of the backstage area. Lead stylist Odile Gilbert had a simple explanation of the hair, which softly snaked around in the back of the head. "There is not a past inspiration," she said. "It's a girl from 2008. Super-simple."

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Backstage Beauty: Rodarte

BellaSugar — Wed, 06 Feb 2008 10:00:18 -0800

Yesterday, Fab and I trekked to Chelsea for the Rodarte show, where we were seated behind none other than Anna Wintour. (Okay, so it was six rows behind her, but still.) Inspired by Japanese horror films, the show itself was genuinely inspiring, and so different from anything else I've seen this week.

For instance, take a look at the show's hair-it's so sleek, colorful, and futuristic. While I love flowing, wearable looks for real life, seeing this kind of sculptural style is an exciting reminder of what Aveda's stylists can do when they're encouraged to go big. I wasn't as enthralled by the makeup, unfortunately; while the deep burgundy lips were popped on the models' ghostly skin, the choice of red eye shadow made them look sickly.

Or maybe I thought of sickness because a few of the models were shockingly thin. I know it's nothing new, but there was something particularly disconcerting about the way the pale makeup paired with visible ribcages and jutting shoulder blades. As much as I loved the originality of the show's aesthetics, it had the unintended effect of making some of the girls look like the walking dead.

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